Sunday 2 August 2015

Devil O' The Highlands Footrace


Here we go...














So it's 04:00 on Saturday 1 August and I find myself on a bus from Fort William to Tyndrum, why?
Well, the Devil O' The Highlands Footrace starts in Tyndrum at 06:00, that's why.

Here's the story of my weekend...

Left Perth at 18:00 on Friday evening, expecting to arrive in Fort William around 8ish, however the weather had other plans for us. On the way up we heard of a road closure just before Bridge of Orchy, so we decided to stop at Tyndrum for a bite to eat. The Real Food Cafe was our restaurant of choice, Susan opting for fish and chips while I had a burger. The place was utterly oozing with runners, walkers and cyclists. A great atmosphere and really good food. Recommended.

We arrived in Fort Willam about 22:00 after getting caught in the delays for around 20 minutes. First thing to do after checking in to the hotel was to meet up with an old friend...
End/Start of the West Highland Way














Popped into The Great Glen Pub for a quick pint and was in bed for 23:00, the alarm was set for 03:00 !
I was awake before the alarm went off, pre-race nerves kicked in and woke me about 02:45, although all the bags and kit had been triple checked, I did it again just for good measure!

The bus was leaving from Fort William bus station at 04:00, it's just a 10 minute walk from our hotel, so set off about 03:40
Turned the corner to see a quuee of people in all different colours of shorts, jackets, compression thingys...yep, I was in the right place.
All aboard the Magic Bus














The bus arrives at the Green Welly Shop in Tyndrum just about 05:00 and we disembark and head into registration, and I took the opportunity to purchase a wee bit breakfast.














Never seen the GreenWelly shop like this...














After a short race briefing form Race Director John Duncan, we're off outside to prepare for the 06:00 start. It struck me that everyone is appearing very relaxed and in jovial mood. Maybe because it was dry and calm, rather than the monsoon conditions which had been predicted all week.


Ready...let's go!














Tyndrum to Bridge of Orchy (7 miles, 1 hour 11 minutes)
The start is uphill for quite a bit so some run, some walk, some like me shuffle walked! Once the path levels out I got the jacket off and started running hoping to keep an even pace and hit my predicted times (I was hoping to complete the race in 10 hours). 
The run to Bridge of Orchy was fantastic, the sun was coming up and the rain stayed away too, which is always a bonus. Got into Bridge of Orchy at 07:11, my predicted time was 07:45, I started worrying if I'd gone off too fast, and would I be able to maintain that pace.

Bridge of Orchy to Glencoe (11 miles, 2 hours 36 minutes)
This is the section I'd most been looking forward to, ever since walking the West Highland Way last year and watching YouTube blogs of those who have run in the past, it's been eating away at me. There's a wee climb up a hill at the start of this section (shuffle-walk) that then brings you down into Inveroran and then onto the start of Rannoch Moor.
Rannoch Moor









Rannoch Moor is an old drovers road, here's a description from the West Highland Way website


  • You are now about to cross over one of Britain’s largest and wildest moors. When conditions are calm this is a deceptively easy walk, the way is extremely exposed with no shelter. Do not stray from the path as there are places you can sink into a peat bog.
The path is just as I remembered, like cobbles and sometimes difficult to walk/run on, plus it felt very slidy underfoot. The first part is pretty much on an incline so a shuffle-walk was called for. Once I got running I felt good, the sun was still out and my little checks were all ticking off positively. 

Had enough to drink?
Had enough to eat?
Shoelaces OK?

The path was causing me a bit of discomfort now and I thought, "How do the top runners handle this?" "What would Paul Giblin (West Highland Way Race champion and record holder) do?"

On top of the discomfort, the predicted rain arrived, a very heavy five minute shower, thankfully I got my jacket on in time and managed to stay dry.

Suddenly the Kings House Hotel and Buachaille Etive Mor came into view, which means I was about 2 miles from the checkpoint, this gave me a lift and I felt I finished this section quite strongly. Also, at the checkpoint I had a wee tin of beans and sausages waiting for me!

Arrived at the checkpoint and a lovely lady had my bag ready for me, took my water bottle and gave it to a guy saying "Paul will fill your bottle, that's Paul Giblin, you know the West Highland Way Race winner?" You could have blown me over, Paul Giblin filling my water bottle! To put this into context, if I was a football player, it's the equivalent of Henrik Larsson polishing my boots! Awesome, gave me such a lift to have a quick chat and sort out my supplies.
Me and Paul Giblin at Glencoe












Glencoe to Kinlochleven (10 miles, 2 hours 35 minutes)
Ate my food as I walked down the hill and crossed the road towards the Kings House, the path sneaks around the back of the hotel and it's a good couple of miles to the bottom of the Devils staircase (an 1850 feet climb). This was tough going, legs starting to feel a wee bit tight, so a steady pace, head down, hands on knees, to get to the top. And at the tp I was greeted by a lovely lady handing out jelly babies, I opted for a hug though! Thank you kind lady.

From the top of the staircase it's a quite rapid downhill to Kinlochleven. This is when the weather got back and unleashed wind and rain that was quite honestly, hellish. It never let up for the next 2 hours and it was one of those "why am I doing this" moments. 

Funny, comforting moments pop up everywhere though, as I turned a corner, there were a couple of walkers in full waterproofs, and the lady was walking with a small umbrella up! It must have been a mental comfort for her, as there was no way it was providing cover!

Coming into Kinlochleven I spotted a figure in the trees (obviously some waiting on a friend), he said "Good effort mate" I replied "Cheers, we were promised weather eh?" Next thing I know I have my face in a fence rolling about in mud! As the guy asked "Are you OK?" I'm picking leaves out of my mouth and re-assuring him I'm alright. A sure sign I'm becoming tired and not lifting my feet enough.

Had enough to drink?
Had enough to eat?
Shoelaces OK?

The checkpoint at Kinlochleven was on the main road and a merry band of marshals and medics were there to help out with bags and drinks. I cannot praise these people enough, the runners at least are moving, they are static in the wind, cold and rain for long periods but remain upbeat and ensure the smooth transitions for runners, it is very much appreciated.

Kinlochleven to Lundavra (7 miles, 2 hours 25 minutes)
By now, it's a mental challenge for me, the climb out of Kinlochleven to Lairig Mor saps your legs when fresh, when you've just done 30 miles and it's lashing with rain, it's very much harder.
The climb took me around 30 minutes, it was 13:00, I estimated if I got to Lundavra by 14:30, I was still on for a 10 hour finish time. Runner places switched back and forward for a couple of miles, I was overtaken more than overtaking. Then...the sun came out!

What a feeling, the sun on your skin, wonderful. Took of my jacket, and really began to enjoy myself, looking around at the scenery and appreciating how lucky I am to be able to get myself into this environment.

Arrived at Lundavra at 14:47, 10 hours was now a goner, I never had it in my legs to up the pace, my brain was trying, but the body wouldn't respond. It was now all about the finish and getting there!

Lundavra to Fort William (7 miles, 1 hours 54 minutes)
Had enough to drink?
Had enough to eat?
Is that a sheep? Hello sheep.
Shoelaces OK?

"Why am I doing this?" I'm doing this because ultrarunning has gotten a hold of me and won't let go, and I don't want it to. Advice received from Joan and Colin Wilson has stuck with me to, "run the flats and the downhills, walk the uphills" However it's amazing what your brain will tell you is an uphill when your knackered!

Just out of Lundavra there's a wee bit of an uphill before you enter a forest, and when the sun is out it really is beautiful. The forest is described  as 'gently undulating' (It's mair ups!) Couple of runners caught up with me here and we exchanged some encouraging pep-talks. The forest section finishes with an uphill and you come to sign for the Braveheart car park, we're three miles away from the finish!

Two miles of this is downhill zig-zag cutbacks and my calfs were screaming, easy to stop but must keep going. Look at Ben Nevis, enjoy the scenery, anything to take my mind off how sore I am.

Had enough to drink?
Had enough to eat?
Shoelaces OK?
Who cares!

We were promised a sting in the tail, the last mile is a steep, steep climb before a short descent into the finish at the Lochaber sports centre. I was broken before starting the climb, but had to keep putting one foot on front of the other. Sickeningly, you can see the finish when you still have half a mile to go, (race director heaven, runner hell).

Entering the finish was awesome, as soon as the crew spot you, the cowbells start ringing, your name is announced and you are encouraged over the line. The feeling of finishing an ultramarathon is very emotional for me, there was Susan, she's always there, it means more than she'll know.

After finishing, I received a beer (appreciated), some chilli (appreciated) and a seat (very much appreciated).

Had a shower, (some right characters in the changing rooms!) received a wonderful massage from Amanda Hamilton, and it was time for a wee chill before the after run meet-up in the Great Glen pub. 

I was outside my 10 hour hoped for finish, but I finished. It's not a failure, it's just a re-adjustment and realisation of how things can affect your run. The weather certainly affect my mood and pace. It also makes me even more in awe of the top runners who produce amazing results.

For a 49 year old who started their first 5k in September 2012, I've come a long way, made a number of great friends and importantly, had a blast! It may be two different races (Highland Fling and Devil O The Highlands) but this year I have ran the West Highland Way!

Must give thanks to everyone involved in John Duncan's race team, you are awesome, we (literally) couldn't do it without you. Thank you.

What have I learned?
If your getting a bus at 04:00, get tae yer bed about 21:00 the night before
Remember to look up, Scotland is awesome
There will be weather
Jelly Babies are your friend
It's OK to talk to sheep!


Predicted times are highlighted, actual times in pen.
Devil predcitions













BOOM!